Jul 3rd, 2018

Frontaal V5 Juice Punch: New England IPA. Long live the (new) king?

Brouwerij Frontaal · 2018 · The Netherlands


Region:Noord-Brabant
ABV:6%
Style:New England India Pale Ale
Price:€ 3.25 (straight from the brewery)

As a beer drinker, life has never been more beautiful than the current times. Where not too many years ago every region of the world tended to stick to their own style of beer, both high-level (micro-)breweries and beer styles seem to have popped up all over the world — even in countries not traditionally beer-producing or beer-drinking. To still see the forest for the trees in this vast landscape, categorisation is crucial.

Of all the beer sold worldwide, the vast majority falls under either the ale (Pale Ale, IPA, et cetera) or lager (such as Pilsner) type. The intricate differences between these types is an article for another day, but in essence the most essential difference is that ales and lagers are fermented using distinctly different species of yeast1. Generally speaking, lager is lighter in flavour, higher carbonated, mellow and served very cold whereas ales are more complex, have much higher bitter content, are fruitier and served at a higher temperature.

Of course, reality is rarely this simple. Beer makers have been walking down the spectrum of flavour within these two styles for many years now. One of the relatively new entries to this game of thrones is the New England India Pale Ale (NE-IPA) style of beer-making. The NE-IPA can be seen as a jucier, tropical variation on a 'standard' IPA. Often specific hops (such as Citra) are used to implement citrus notes. The beer is brewed without much of the bitterness one would normally get from an IPA (technical note: hop are added after the boiling process, keeping alpha acids from being pulled from the hops — but this will also be for a later article). And finally, the beer is unpasteurized and cloudy. What one should then end up with is a fruity, not-so-bitter IPA.

The specific beer being tasted here is the V5 Juice Punch from the Dutch brewery Frontaal in Breda. The name already gives away much of what to expect of this beer, and it should certainly fall within expectation of the subtype. They use Wyeast 1318, which is known to be a relatively juicy yeast strain in IPA. The IBU is a fairly mild 48. This, alongside the higher levels of chloride to sulfate to bring out more of the malt character (as opposed to typical IPAs, that favour the focus on sulfate to accentuate the hops), creates an expectation of a very smooth, fruity yet complex 'IPA-style' beer with relatively low bitters.

1. Many would point out differences in fermentation temperatures, or top- vs. bottom-fermentation, but these differences are not all-encompassing.


Appearance

In the glass it's a hazy, deep golden-brown colour. The beer is unfiltered (as is to be expected from this style), giving it the appearance of (old) orange juice. The foam head is very white, somewhat thin and dissolves quickly. Fine bubbles are seen.

Nose

The nose betrays its American-style IPA roots, with medium-to-high hops showing up immediately. What follows is much fruitier tones: light citrus, strawberry, pineapple, passion fruit. It moves into orange marmalade and turmeric when the medium bitter tones start taking over.

Palate

The mouthfeel is very wide: full-bodied and creamy. The bubbles are a fine mousse. Unripe banana and minneola enter the scene, with underlying notes of black pepper and walnuts. The hops are very pronounced, but the bitter definitely plays a large role here as well. The ending is noticeably dry.

Thoughts

The conclusion can be summarised very simply: this beer is very enjoyable.

It contains a good amount of complexity, enough bitter tones to keep most pale ale drinkers happy and is a good mouthful. Yet I can see myself drinking a few more of these than initially planned without feeling full-belied and hopped up. This is not something I can often say of (Dutch) IPA.

No, it is not the most complex beer in the world (but complex enough). And yes, it is steeply priced (but not impossibly). But the beer is well-made. And that's also not always the case with Dutch IPA. And once you have finished that first bottle of NE-IPA, you start understanding just what that NE-IPA hype is all about...

As the bottle says: please drink fresh.

Tasted from a collins glass. Production date: April 10th, 2018


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